Further down the road is a sharp turn and an even sharper fall...Some would like to explain this particular 'fall' as the angelic descent into Hellfire...but for me it is no such thing. It is just a simple slope as far as the road is concerned with a little police post at the corner, where fat, giggly policemen languish all day drinking tea and watching TV. As we descend...the first noticeable change is the change in air temperature...warm...and warmer still...A narrow lane runs like a crazy little kid, hitting tiny little shops and entrances to mangled, sour-faced buildings with two-roomed apartments. There is a small board by the side that reads "Model Islamic School' and only God knows what would be so very model about it since there is no school visible as such. People throng the narrow street like its a festival...and why not? it is yet another evening...which means there might just dawn a tomorrow. The 'zari' from the last Eid still hangs low overhead and the dark night sky seems to sparkle in gold and green. Young men sit on bikes eating their Kebabs, discussing hot women in burqa. Men in their after-work kurta pajama attire holding hands of little children do their evening 'ghosht' shopping, with their wives gliding silently behind...shy as if it were their first night together. Big pots over slow fire cook biryani...e-special ones, Hyderabadi ones, horrible Delhi ones...and big trays sit beside, mounted with huge pieces of meat swimming in oil and curry. Mullahs in skull caps, avadhi pajamas and unkempt beards sit inside consuming their daily dose of meat and discussing world politics against the Muslims and the glorious past of Islam, often asking the poor boy in his torn shirt for more onions to keep their discussions fueled. Embers fly from the red, hot coal burning in ovens at which men sit turning sticks of delicious kebabs...only 5 rupees a stick. Steel plates laden with kebabs, mirch kii chatni and onions get passed around the mob that surrounds them. Big Kadhaiiz bubbling with oil and sheerah bring the jalebeez to life. Beside it a dog gnaws at a hen's head chopped off that same morning in God's name.
The warmth...it never leaves...the smell of food wafting through the air...the colourful crowds...the life of the toiling masses...This is where India lives...not in the brick walls of the rich but in the simplicity and the warmth of its populace. In these sour faced buildings with poor paint peeling off like the skin of a boiled potato...lives India's soul...its intellect. Lack of opportunity, poverty, responsibilities...but I hear poetry in these ghettos...poetry and harmony...I sense dreams, desires and an inexplicable faith...a faith that people like me will forever remain deprived of...
(in memory of a journey to Zakir Nagar through New Friends Colony)